Travel

Winter Sun in the Algarve

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Some snaps from a short trip to the Algarve last week in search of some winter sun. Carvoeiro was a lovely base to explore the area and especially this time of year when it was a pleasant temperature and quiet. The coast is pretty and dramatic in equal measure with the limestone cliffs shaped and splintered by the sea and sinkholes forming coves and caves that the area is famous for. We saw dolphins offshore, peregrines nesting in the cliffs and interesting plant life along the clifftops.

A trip inland to visit friends who have made Portugal their home was a chance to look at the unique way the land is used in the area. A bit dry this but quite interesting… Montado is a land management system that works as a sustainable form of agriculture evolved to cope with the climate challenges that the area faces with wet Springs and hot dry Summers. It’s an integrated mix of farming that works to provide produce in all conditions. The cork trees are a vital part of this system as they keep the soil healthy by offering shade from harsh summer sun, dropping leaves and providing an environment for plants to grow beneath the canopy. Animals can shelter and forage in this undergrowth which also serves to keep moisture from evaporating in the heat.

There is plenty of biodiversity within the undergrowth which then supports insect life and birds of which I counted at least 10 species in a short time using the Cornell Bird ID app which identified tree creepers, siskin, nuthatch and great spotted woodpecker among others. The cork trees are a species of Oak that will yield a harvest of cork once the tree reaches 25 years old. After around 10 years the cork will grow back to be harvested by Tiradors who work with small axes to carefully remove slabs of the outer bark. The numbers on the trunks refer to the last year the tree was stripped of its outer cork layer. A tree will provide a harvest for some 200 years. The whole system really relies upon the cork trees remaining economically viable so with the threat of plastic and screw stops to the market, the landscape is at risk. Also the heightened risk of wildfires due to climate change is a problem which is only going to get worse.

Anyway, the forests were lovely to walk around and I have a new appreciation for the cork in my bottles. More photos in the gallery below.

Milan - San Remo 2023

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A short trip out to San Remo to watch the end of one of the ‘monuments’ of pro cycling; the Milan - San Remo. The race finishes in the centre of town and it’s a great place to spend a few days; exploring (getting lost in) the sprawling alleyways of the old town, cycling along the brilliant coastal cycle path and venturing up into the hills that rise up behind the town for lunches in hilltop villages and some great cycling routes. A chat with the olive oil guy in the market was also a must-do for a stay in Italy.

I was trying to get some shots inspired by my hero of cycling photography, Jered Gruber but soon realised a motorbike and a press pass is the necessary to really tell the story of the day! Obvious I know!

It was still fun to get a few shots of the race, including Mathieu van der Poel winning on his own. Aside from the action it was lovely to be surrounded by the beautiful buildings of this once grand tourist destination and get some images that hopefully convey the atmosphere of a few sunny Spring days on the Ligurian coast.

Nepal in November

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In November we had a trip to Nepal. I was last in the country around 11 years ago and had always wanted to return to the mountains after spending a month trekking in the Khumbu (Everest) region. Over the last decade the mountains have become more popular so we wanted to go somewhere a little quieter. We arranged to go and trek the Manaslu circuit which traces a loop around the 8th highest mountain in the world. It’s a restricted area so requires permits and a guide both to keep tourist numbers under control and ensure safety, especially over the high altitude pass towards the end of the trek.

It was interesting to see the changes in Nepal since I was last there. In 2015 the country was rocked by an earthquake and as you might expect, the country was ill prepared for the covid pandemic but despite the signs of the earthquake, little had changed apart from the presence of electricity and the internet. The mobile phone has become ubiquitous and masts and power lines were much more prevalent in the mountains since I was last there.

Logistically, trekking in Nepal is made easy thanks to the tea houses that are scattered along the route in all but the most remote areas. It’s basic accommodation but a bed, food, drink, a shower and electricity are all available and not much else is required when walking long distances each day. We also chose to walk up the Tsum valley, a diversion from the route that took us up to the historic monastery of Mu Gompa, close to the Tibetan border. An amazing place to spend a freezing night looking down the valley under a sky full of stars.

Photographically, I travelled light as I would need to carry everything I took which meant no big lenses. I was aware of the miles we were going to be walking each day so my priority was keeping my pack weight down. I took a 40mm pancake lens and in hindsight I probably would have been better off with one of the latest mobile phones. The 40mm is a bit restrictive so is only really the right lens for a small number of shots.

The mountains are a fantastic environment and it’s hard to take it all in with a camera. Sometimes it’s better just to stand and breath in the views.

Another interesting thing about Nepal is how climate change is, or will be, effecting the country. Nepal has such vertiginous terrain. I’m sure if it was stretched out flat it would reach well into the heart of neighbouring India and Tibet. It’s a constant battle to keep roads and trekking routes open as landslips regularly smear huge amounts of rock and mud down the sides of the mountains. As a poor country with little to spend on clear up operations, it’s easy to see how more extreme weather makes the future uncertain for some routes.

One of the biggest pleasures of returning to Nepal was to be among the people again. On my first trip I had travelled through India and crossing the border into Nepal felt like a relief. Much quieter and more laid back. It was special to meet up with old friends who’d helped me out when I volunteered at a school in Kathmandu and it was also great to meet Dafuri, our guide for the Manaslu trek who taught us about the culture and customs in the mountain villages but also filled us in on the local gossip when we wanted to know what people were chatting about!

All in all a great trip.